| UPDATED
AUG.18th,2001:
The positioning
of the wheel wells are like shown. Now I have to put some putty to fill
this volume. |
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| In order to
prevent the putty stick to wheel wells, a masking fluid (Humbrol's Maskol)
was applied on the styrene.. |
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| With the internal
panels put in place, the space is ready for puttying. Note the dark yellow
strip beneath the rear window. It is also put there to prevent putty sticking
there. It is a precaution that I may need that tiny channel there while
fitting the rear glass. |
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| And this is
the view as putty applied roughly. I used automotive polyester putty for
the filling purposes. |
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| UPDATED
JUNE 07th, 2001:
After it has cured, and
the mating parts taken out, the view was like this. |
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| The handles
at the insides of the rear panels were shaved and the panels were filled
with putty. These were to be withinn the engine compartment, so the surface
had to be flat. |
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| The rear windows
were given a new contour as shown, with a styrene piece cut and glued in
place. |
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| Now
the first body puttying. Some plastic is still available to the eye... |
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| I
decided to open the rear lid for engine viewing. So, the rear had to be
unitized to form a hatchback door, and the sides were first joined by two
strips of styrene. |
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| The styrene
strips were reinforced from under side, with clips wire. The wire was glued
with superglue. Later, it will be hidden under some putty. |
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| The
separation was made by a series of tiny drilled holes. |
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| Here,
the rear lid is separated from the body. |
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| The
widened body had to have some properly contoured rear bumper. The outline
was made by styrene parts. The insides will be filled with putty and then
filed, sanded, etc. to its final shape. |
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