
Then I placed
the hinge on the door panel. The aim was to make a dismountable hinge,
for the hinge itself would remain on the chassis whereas the door panel
had to be with the body. After locating the vertical position, I first
placed a styrene sheet, thickness equal to the pin's diameter, between
the pin arms as shown at the left. Next, I glued in the upper and lower
fixing guides as at the right.
Finally, I glued
a confining styrene sheet above all. Now the styrene "housing" for two
arms has two tight channels that the arms can be pushed in.
Then I glued
a piece of styrene to be a stop for the positioning of the hinge.
Unfortunately,
this would be a disaster! The styrene tubing was too thick so that the
swing axis could not be very close to the door panel; whereas it should
be. So I had to think of another hinging way. Later!
I had made reinforcing
brackets before, planning to install the hinge body (styrene tubing) on
the inner panel. Now these are obsolete too.
26 June 2005:
Now the dashboard
had to be taken care of. First, I did not like the pedals hanging right
down from the lower panel. So I cut them off.

I glued
side panels to the dashboard so that the sides would not be seen as
empty
when the doors were open.
Here, a test
installation with the final cover layer to the sides.
27 June 2005:
A suggestion
came (thanks Stan Seel),
that the C-post be
thicker. So I manipulated with his suggestion to end up as shown.

Another try with
hinging. This time, the swing axis is as close as possible to the body
skins.
OK, that was
it! Now the door was opening loyal to the real one.
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