New Mini Fastback3

New Mini GT

Original Kit: Revell 7383
Date Started: 13 June 2005
Date Finished: 31 July 2005
Page 3 of 8
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25 June 2005:
Now for the door hinges....
For a realistic door sweep, the axis of the hinges had to be in a very close position to the door panel. So I thought of somewhat different hinge. Bending the head parts of headed pins symmetrically as in the photo, I prepared the upper and lower arms.

I took a piece of styrene tubing, heated the heads of the pins and dipped them into the tubing while hot. After dipping, a small squeeze-play with the heated styrene, closed the styrene over the pin head, forming a ball-joint. Turning the pin a few times around made an easily-revolving ball joint. Applying this to both ends of the tubing, I got the hinge of one side. Same procedure for the other followed.

Then I placed the hinge on the door panel. The aim was to make a dismountable hinge, for the hinge itself would remain on the chassis whereas the door panel had to be with the body. After locating the vertical position, I first placed a styrene sheet, thickness equal to the pin's diameter, between the pin arms as shown at the left. Next, I glued in the upper and lower fixing guides as at the right.

Finally, I glued a confining styrene sheet above all. Now the styrene "housing" for two arms has two tight channels that the arms can be pushed in.

Then I glued a piece of styrene to be a stop for the positioning of the hinge.
Unfortunately, this would be a disaster! The styrene tubing was too thick so that the swing axis could not be very close to the door panel; whereas it should be. So I had to think of another hinging way. Later!

I had made reinforcing brackets before, planning to install the hinge body (styrene tubing) on the inner panel. Now these are obsolete too.

26 June 2005:
Now the dashboard had to be taken care of. First, I did not like the pedals hanging right down from the lower panel. So I cut them off.

I glued side panels to the dashboard so that the sides would not be seen as empty when the doors were open.

Here, a test installation with the final cover layer to the sides.

27 June 2005:
A suggestion came (thanks Stan Seel), that the C-post be thicker. So I manipulated with his suggestion to end up as shown.

Another try with hinging. This time, the swing axis is as close as possible to the body skins.

OK, that was it! Now the door was opening loyal to the real one.

*25 June 2005:* Now for the door hinges.... For a realistic door sweep, the axis of the hinges had to be in a very close position to the door panel. So I thought of somewhat different hinge. Bending the head parts of headed pins symmetrically as in the photo, I prepared the upper and lower arms.
I took a piece of styrene tubing, heated the heads of the pins and dipped them into the tubing while hot. After dipping, a small squeeze-play with the heated styrene, closed the styrene over the pin head, forming a ball-joint. Turning the pin a few times around made an easily-revolving ball joint. Applying this to both ends of the tubing, I got the hinge of one side. Same procedure for the other followed.
Then I placed the hinge on the door panel. The aim was to make a dismountable hinge, for the hinge itself would remain on the chassis whereas the door panel had to be with the body. After locating the vertical position, I first placed a styrene sheet, thickness equal to the pin's diameter, between the pin arms as shown at the left. Next, I glued in the upper and lower fixing guides as at the right.
Finally, I glued a confining styrene sheet above all. Now the styrene "housing" for two arms has two tight channels that the arms can be pushed in.
Then I glued a piece of styrene to be a stop for the positioning of the hinge. Unfortunately, this would be a disaster! The styrene tubing was too thick so that the swing axis could not be very close to the door panel; whereas it should be. So I had to think of another hinging way. Later!
I had made reinforcing brackets before, planning to install the hinge body (styrene tubing) on the inner panel. Now these are obsolete too.
*26 June 2005:* Now the dashboard had to be taken care of. First, I did not like the pedals hanging right down from the lower panel. So I cut them off.
I glued side panels to the dashboard so that the sides would not be seen as empty when the doors were open.
Here, a test installation with the final cover layer to the sides.
*27 June 2005:* *A suggestion came (thanks Stan Seel), that the C-post be thicker. So I manipulated with his suggestion to end up as shown.*
Another try with hinging. This time, the swing axis is as close as possible to the body skins.
OK, that was it! Now the door was opening loyal to the real one.