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28 October 2001:

I constructed the rear outer panel by a straight styrene sheet at the center and filled the corners with polyester putty. The pic shows the cab before the putty application.
Putty mess after the application.
View after the first sanding. The rear overhang seemed too bulky and reduced the ramp angle, so I marked a cut-off line.
21 November 2001:

For the rear lamps, the housings had to be carved in the plastic. I did the job with Dremel, and applied polyester putty around the lens to take the exact contours. To prevent the putty from sticking to the lens, I applied Humbrol's Maskol on the lens prior to putty application.
Here, you see the putty with the lens taken out and sanded. The fender bulge upper contour had a wobbly profile, and it would be corrected as shown next.
This is the restoring putty application for the fender bulge. Also, note the filling styrene pieces at the remaining gap from the rear window and the rear bumper panel.
Now the floor panel. Since the chassis members were protruding in the cabin, a beveled panel was tailored on the floor. Also, a recess in the firewall was made to make room for the rear part of the engine.
I tailor-cut the side panels, and filled the rear parts with putty after shaving the armrests and rear door pockets.
As for the rear bumper, I found a chromed part from my parts box and gave the same curvature with the body. I drilled two holes to house the bumper supports.
The first primer coat. I had to apply putty and sanding to the bed to get a smooth finish.
For locating the tent, I buried two pins into the plastic with heating by solder gun. I then applied super glue over them to finalize the fixing. The small pin you see at the very right is a broken one, with the embedded part being impossible to remove. 
On the mating part of the cab, I drilled two holes to house the locating pins.
For the bed floor, real wood was used. I applied a coloring protective to the wood to give it a proper color.
Meanwhile, I painted the car with metallic dark green. I fabricated the peripheral bars from brass rod and applied bare metal on it for chromed look. I also applied bare metal to the lens housings for a brighter lens finish. I was too fast even for myself, I forgot to take pics during these steps!
Returning to the wooden bed floor again; I cut strips from the painted and now dry wood. As in the following pics, I first laid them on a sticky paper, and glued the bed profile from a card on its back. (Old business cards are good for such jobs). Then I cut the whole thing out, accordingly. To make the wood grain stand out more in contrast, I sanded a little from the surface, so that the parts that absorbed paint seemed darker. Then I applied another coat, that resulted in lighter and darker shades of the same grain in more contrast.
I painted the dashboard and side panels, and the seats. I applied carpeting on the floor with cutting from self-sticking black velvet. 
Since the chassis was interfering with the snap-tite kit's lens and reflector parts, I cut them all into individual parts.
I assembled the lenses with Testors Clear Parts Cement as shown, and also the reflectors the same way. 
Then I located the engine in accordance with the internal tub, and glued it in place.