Anadol

20 December 2010:

I filled the space between outer and inner door panels with polyester putty and made a pre-sanding.

12 January 2011:

I had the chassis cut in 3 pieces with a laser cutter, from steel sheet. I wanted to make a poseable front end. To achieve this, I drilled and tapped the ends of the wishbones with M2 thread. I cut the heads of two M2 screws and installed in place, gluing with superglue to prevent rotation. I prepared the "kingpins" from a 4 mm dia. brass rod, by drilling and tapping with M2 thread. I also tapped M2 threads to hold the axle pin. I prepared the steering arms from 1.2 mm steel wire, flattening and drilling 1 mm hole at one end. Then I bent the wire and inserted one end to the kingpin, then fixed by soldering.

I inserted M2 nuts inside 5/32" washers and glued them with superglue (brake discs). Then I screwed the brake discs on the M2 axles and made ready for wheel mounting. Later, a tie rod will be manufactured.

15 January 2011:

The steering arms did not prove to have proper steering geometry, so I dismantled them and made a new set. I also made the tie rod from 1.2 mm steel wire and made a brass tube housing. I fixed this housing to the chassis with epoxy glue.

21 January 2011:

I made and assembled the rear axle group. I cast the differential over a 4 mm styrene tube, then inserted the axle through the eyes of laser-cut rear springs and fixed with superglue. Then I made a brass bar with M2 threads at both ends. I prepared the "rear drum surfaces" by inserting M2 nuts inside M4 washers and screwed them on the threaded axle. I fixed the assembly to the chassis with epoxy glue.

23 January 2011:
Using the wheel from a Ford Escort kit, and a suitable tyre, I made a smaller offset wheel and tyre to manufacture a silicone mold. Then I cast wheel and tyre assemblies from black resin, and painted.

24 January 2011:

I cut a universal joint from my parts box, made a mold to make the joint before the differential. Then I cast a part from marble adhesive at the end of a styrene rod, then glued the part in place.

I began detailing the engine. I made the fan from brass sheet. I made the distributor from styrene rod and made the cable holes with a heated needle. For the air filter, I used a metal washer and glued pieces of styrene below.

31 January 2011:
After installing the spark plugs and cables, I glued the other components to form the rolling chassis.

I filled the gaps at the door opening rear with automotive polyester putty.

06 February 2011:
I bent a roll-bar from 2 mm solder wire and checked the fitting.

Since the doors were opening, the seats had to be realistic. So I cut the bottom of two seats to proper thickness. I prepared the seat legs from steel wire, inserted them in the holes I drilled at the seat bottoms, then glued them in place.

13 February 2011:

I shaved the cast window crank arm from the door insides. I drilled the center and made a crank arm from a headed pin to be placed in place later.

I fixed the boot floor inside the body and applied a test primer.

14 February 2011:
I made support rods for the boot and hood from 0.8 mm wire.

16 February 2011:
I made a template for the roof lining, cut from masking tape and applied it under the roof.

17 February 2011:

I made U-bolts from 0.8 mm wire to hold the seats in place, plus act as hinges. I drilled the floor panel at suitable places, installed the seats by glueing the U-bolts with CA glue from below. The seats can be folded just as in the original car. I also painted the roll-bar and fixed it into place with CA glue.

After some painstaking masking, I painted the body. Some minor overflows will be retouched later.

.....